The ‘Grande Dame’ of All Grapes – Pinot Noir
“Maya – Why are you so in the pinot? Miles – I don’t know. I don’t know…
… It’s a hard grape to grow, as you know. Right?
Thin skin. Temperamental. Ripens early. It’s not a survivor like cabernet which can just grow anywhere, thrive even when it is neglected.
Pinot needs constant care and affection.
In fact it can only grow in these really specific, tucked away corners of the world.
And only the most patient and nurturing of growers can do it, really.
Only someone who can really take the time to understand pinot’s potential can then coax it into its fullest expression.
Then, Ahh! It’s flavours are the most haunting, and brilliant, thrilling and subtle and ancient on the planet.”
Sideways, 2004
This scene in Sideways catapulted the grape to stardom, making the fortune of some growers while destabilizing others as consumers stampeded to all and any pinot noir producers. Today, the movie is still celebrated for its essay on pinot, and our fascination for the grape remains strong.
Pinot noir’s fascinating history dates back to French antiquity in Burgundy. Roman invaders, fine wine connoisseurs in their own rights, quickly recognized the grape’s potential and traded it within the empire on their way to England and back to Rome. However, Pinot noir’s modern rise to fame emerged out of the dark ages in medieval France. The newly established Order of Cistercian monks applied the “scientific method” of observing and keeping constant detailed records of the vine-growing needs (weather, soil, geography, etc.) and wine-making processes. Over time this revolutionary approach to viniculture and wine making is what established Burgundy’s reputation for high-quality wines. Fast-tracked six to seven centuries later, pinot noir is now grown in many choice locations worldwide, notably in Germany, California, Oregon, New Zealand, Australia, South Africa and Canada.
The main challenge with Pinot noir is its delicate nature. It buds early and has thin skin, making it vulnerable to frost, disease and mould. Because of its fragility, pinot noir’s mythical aromatics can easily be lost over seemingly innocuous weather variations or soil composition. Once harvested, the fruit must also be processed quickly to preserve its qualities. In short, Pinot noir is a pain. But the potential rewards are great when everything falls into place and is done right. For those reasons, the notion of vintage is crucial and influences the cost of a good bottle.
There are different expressions of pinot noirs. “Cool wine regions” such as Burgundy, Canada and Germany produce lighter versions of pinot with fresher acidity, carrying aromatics of red berries, cherries, and tomato leaves. “Warmer regions” such as Oregon, California (Russian River and Sonoma), South Africa and Australia produce bolder wines with darker fruits such as dark cherries and raspberry on the palate. When the wine ages in barrels, it develops earthy aromas of mushrooms, wet leaves or even “barnyard” (yum!) in addition to the berries mentioned above.
Well-made pinots have delicate, complex aromas and can be “seductive.” I still remember a client who opened a $300 bottle of Burgundy. It was about three years ago, and to this day, I still can taste the wine and the moment of Ahh! it engendered. That bottle was worth its weight in gold.
Pinot noir is versatile and pairs well with various foods, including grilled salmon (select a light style of the wine), roasted chicken, turkey, boeuf bourguignon, pork, risotto, and charcuterie. The wine also pairs well with earthy flavours like mushrooms and semi-soft cheeses like Gruyère, Comté, and Gouda. It is one of those go-to wine if you do not know what to select with your meal.
Finally, it is worth noting that pinot noir makes refreshing rosé bursting with fresh spring berries and grapefruit flavours. It is also used in Champagne – those “blanc de noir” style of bubbly lending weight to the sparkles.
Due to the capricious nature of the grape, I recommend you visit a reputable wine boutique and ask for help to select the best bottle in your price range from a classic pinot region. It will not disappoint if enjoyed with your favourite dish or while watching the movie Sideways.
Cheers!
Renée Delorme, Sommelier
www.tastingpleasures.ca
403.200.9961
mail@tastingpleasures.ca
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