My First Alberta Wagyu
I secretly purchased three Wagyu steaks for our family’s Easter supper, spending a small fortune in the process. At the time, I thought it best not to share this detail with my husband. Better to enjoy the epicurean meal first and explain later, I reasoned.
Thrilled by the idea, my daughter got busy and found Brant Lake Wagyu shop on her phone. The modern-looking meat boutique is located in Calgary on 42nd Avenue, a block from Blackfoot Trail. That is where I purchased my first three Zabuton Wagyu steaks – valued at $98 per kilogram.
So, what is Wagyu you ask? A culinary dream for many, it is said to be the ultimate beef – ever so moist, tender and flavourful. Wagyu is a breed of cattle that originated in Japan (“Wa” means Japanese while “gyu” means cow). According to the American Wagyu Association, these cows were first prized as draft animals used in agriculture like horses. They were strong, had great endurance and were suited for hard work. Over time the species developed an inordinate density of intramuscular fat cells (marbling) where their energy was stored. That high content of soft muscular fat makes this meat so unique.
There is evidence that Wagyu beef was domesticated over 35,000 years ago. Still, it is only recently that they were introduced to America. An increasing number of producers are now raising these animals and often crossing them with other Western breeds to improve their herds. Probably mounting to a cardinal sin, this practice is not endorsed in Japan. In fact, Wagyu beef is considered a “national living treasure” in that country. It is highly regulated to preserve its genetic history. For this reason, their livestock can no longer be exported.
The Brant family started in 1993 with 19 Wagyu cows and bulls. Today they raise over 1000 animals per year in the High River area. Most are Wagyu / Angus cross and full-blood Wagyu bulls. They also subscribed to the Verified Beef Production program; committed to humane, stress-free, hormone-free, grain-fed production. BLW are currently selling their products across Canada in several high-end meat shops.
Back at the shop, I was given instructions on cooking a Wagyu steak. The technique is simple but requires precision to get the best out of it. On the big day, the steaks were brought to room temperature, salted with Maldon smoked salt flakes (might as well use expensive salt, right?) and warmed for a few minutes at 300F. The fat at that temperature started to melt right away, like butter.
The steaks were then flash seared for a couple minutes in a hot cast iron plate preheated on high heat. Besides fresh ground pepper, no other ingredients or fat are necessary. Still, I could not help but use a bit of butter and thyme while searing the meat, thinking it would add extra complexity without distracting from the primary flavours.
Since the meat is the star, the side dishes were kept simple; a medley of roasted root vegetables and a simple green salad.
As for the wine, the decision required meditation of sort… imagining the flavours of the meat I had only read
about. After much contemplation sitting in front of my small collection of wine in the basement, and because I was getting cold, I finally settled for a 2010 Château Cantin, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. A right bank Merlot-based Bordeaux blend. The elegant and luscious red wine had sufficient intensity to match the grilled meat. Its acidity refreshed the palate while the fruitiness of the wine was coaxed by the salt in the meat. Finally, the silky tannins were further softened by the fattiness and earthiness of the meat. In short, we had a beautiful waltz of flavours and textures.
The dinner was a success, and much laughter was shared. The flavours were balanced, and the meat was perfectly cooked, ever so juicy and melting in your mouth. And just like that, nothing was left of my extravagant offering. Best of all, everyone agreed we should do this feast again – Cost be damned. Yes, it is expensive and therefore best left for special occasions. However, when you think of it, it was much cheaper than going out to enjoy a similar experience in a fancy restaurant.
Renée Delorme
Sommelier
www.tastingpleasures.ca
403.200.9961
mail@tastingpleasures.ca
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